A Thai Wedding

Serendipitously my friend Lance came to Thailand to get "remarried" to his wife in a traditional Thai ceremony this weekend. I got to attend, pretty intimately, every part of the ceremony, representing the entirety of the groom's guest list.
The wedding was wonderful. I was so lucky to have gotten this opportunity. Not only did I go to all of the events, but I got to hang out with Lance (a much needed friendly face) and travel with him and his wife to each part of the ceremony.
The first part of the day began at Lee's mother's house. They went to a studio to put on traditional Thai wedding attire and picked me up around 5:30 am. Shortly after we arrived at the house 9 monks strolled in, each carrying various adornments and tools to bless the wedding. Apparently, that's all they do. Unlike in the west, the monks don't actually marry the couple, they simply bless the union.
This part of the ceremony consisted mostly of chanting and feeding the monks in thanks. I was originally going to take pictures using Lance's camera, but Lee decided that one of her friends should do it, which turned out to be a very good idea.
I learned today that Thai religious ceremonies have alot of ritual but not alot of reverence. During the chanting, Mel (Lee's photographing friend) would walk around taking pictures, at times even getting between the couple and the monks! I would never have even considered doing something like that, so it's probably good that she was taking the pictures.
Also throughout the ceremony people would poke their heads in the window, walk through the room, talk, or even yell in the nearby kitchen... I was expecting holy, silent reverence, and it was anything but.
Immediately after the monks blessed the union it was time for the "money parade." Lance and "his family" (which consisted of me and a couple dozen Thai volunteers) paraded down the street with gifts and cash for Lee's family. As we approached the house, we found Lance blockaded by several rows of family members.
Each row had to be persuaded to let Lance into the house so that he may marry lee. Lee's grandmother acted as Lance's negotiator, and although I couldn't understand what she was saying, I got the impression that many of her statements were "off color" at best...
Once inside, the gifts were laid out along with the dowry and there was much whooping and cheering over the offering. Finally, Lee's mother wrapped the dowry up into a bag and ran up the stairs as everyone cheered, which I supposed symbolized the acceptance and therefore the marriage.
That evening there was a banquet at the Police club which was rather fancy. This was much more western seeming. There was a wedding cake, the lighting of candles, speeches, etc. etc.

Unfortunately, all of the pictures are on Lance's camera... as soon as he gets back I will hound him about emailing them to me so I can post some!

Chinatown... not that much different.

I have to say, it was a little difficult to get excited about Chinatown in Bangkok. Whereas in San Francisco walking into Chinatown is like being whisked away to another world; Suddenly, you find yourself plunged into the farest reaches of Asia, no longer finding the familiar foods, faces, and even language that you have come to expect in American cities.
In Bangkok, for some reason, the change isn't quite as dramatic. People were still Asian. The food was still offered in street vendors. And I still couldn't read the signs.
One thing that was noticeable about Chinatown was the vast array of products available. If you want to buy something... anything go to Chinatown. An endless street market (geared more towards gizmos and gadgets than gastronomy) creeps in and out of the side streets all along the main drag. It's the only place in Bangkok that I have been able to find a battery recharger (which means pictures may be online soon!).
Otherwise, today I was quite proud of myself for further practicing taxi liberation. I walked from my "home" neighborhood to Chinatown and then up to the national stadium Skytrain station. It was quite a hike, but well worth it. I got to see quite a bit of central Bangkok and realized that it's not nearly so big as it may seem from the protective glass of a taxi.

Something to write home about...

Last night I found an amazing restaurant. I have decided that since I am going to be in Bangkok for a few more days (my friend is serendipitously getting married here on the 30th) I would make it my mission to try a new neighborhood in Bangkok each day. Yesterday I travelled by bus and sky train to Sukumvhit road, which was an experience in and of itself.
I couldn't read where the buses were going (I am on a kindergarten reading level in Thai at best) so I decided to pick one at random and hope that I ended up near a sky train station. Buses are paid for based on destination, so when I got on I was asked where I was going... I said I didn't know. After about a minute of confusion he finally just let me ride for free, which was very nice. Eventually, I saw a sky train station and got off the bus.
The sky train (think monorail) is much easier to navigate. With two set tracks and many informational signs in both English and Thai, it is a breeze to use. I finally ended up in Sukumvhit, but then realized I didn't have any idea what I actually wanted to do there.
I whipped out my guidebook to see what was around and realized I was very close to "Cabbages and Condoms" a restaurant dedicated to raising money for HIV awareness, education, and prevention. I had read about it before and though it would be an excellent activity.
Boy was it. The place was much more upscale then I had expected. It was far away from the main road, about 100 meters down Soi 12 (sois are side streets that go off of the major roads). It is hidden away in a little garden surrounded by ficus trees that have beautiful brown and pink roots tendriling towards the ground and blowing in the wind along with the white Christmas lights strung around the premises.
Inside the decor was decidedly condom themed with everything from mannequins wearing dresses and suits made out of condoms to framed cases of condoms from around the world. It was, however, all surprisingly tasteful. I would have never thought that a theme like that could blend with an otherwise very expensive and extravagant decor, but it worked very well.
It turned out to be pretty expensive (for Thailand), I had the Chicken mussaman, rice, and bottled water which came to a grand total of 242 baht (about $7.50). It was well worth it. Not only is my money going towards a noble cause, but the food was some of the best Thai food I have ever had. I can't wait to go back.
This afternoon I will explore Chinatown. Remember, you can post comments on my blogs by clicking on "post comment" below!

Uncharted Territory

I left Lopburi and headed to totally uncharted territory. Uthai Thani is not in any guide book and is nearly non-existant so far as the internet is concerned. It was a nice little town, and I was able to find my way around well enough, although I'm not sure if I hit all of the places of interest (or any of them, for that matter... or if there even are any).
One thing that definately surprised me about Uthai was how unfriendly the people were. I suppose they just weren't used to Farang (foreigners) and the language barrier certainly didn't help. I even got turned away at two different internet shops... one because she didn't think I would be able to use the thai keyboard (it's easy enough to switch), and another because they were just punk kids who ran an internet game shop and didn't want me there...
But, now I'm back in Farang-friendly Bangkok. I stayed at the Green House again for my first night but upon talking to an Irishmen abuot hit place decided I should move to a cheaper hotel (Green had given me a terrible room this time with a too soft lumpy old mattress). This place is 100 baht cheaper and pretty nice, although it doesn't feel as secure as Green did... wish me luck!!

(F)Lopburi

I came to Lop Buri today to decide if I would be willing to work here, i.e. live here. I think the answer is pretty much no. It's still a city, in the truest sense of the word, but not anywhere near as cool and exciting as Bangkok and nearly as polluted. What's worse, I'm assuming it will take almost as long (and be twice as difficult) to get from Lopburi to Uthai Thani, where Trevor will be (near). If I'm going to be in a city, then it's Bangers all the way... otherwise, somewhere off the major bus route or train route from Bangkok to Uthai Thani...

So it is Written...

Reflections on my first week

***This Post is Incomplete due to computer issues... check back in a few days for more pictures!***
Thailand is wonderful. despite the difficulties of my first week I am very glad that I came and am enjoying myself immensely. As of yet I've done very few "touristy" things. For the most part I've been staying close to familiar territory and simply meeting people and taking in the culture. My first neighborhood in Thailand, Khao San Road, is very accommodating. It is essentially the hotbed of tourism in Bangkok. Home to guest houses, overpriced restaurants, and 1,001 tailors. Interestingly enough, it also shares the turf with Bangkok's Indian neighborhood, although it is not nearly as concentrated and noticeable as the various American chinatowns.
Almost all of the signs are in English and Thai and street food is delicious, plentiful, and available 'round the clock. My first home, "the green house" is guest house that caters mainly to Israelis although it's prices and amenities make it popular among visitors from all nations. It's internet access allowed me to use Skype to make calls to the US as well as upload pictures to my blog. The only thing it lacked was a laundry service which I was able to find in short order for relatively cheap.
My crazy sleep schedule had me wandering Khao San at all hours of the night, which was nice, being able to see it at all 24 hours without staying out all night. It's noticeably seedier around 4 and 5 am, with propositions changing from "massages" to more direct and persistent offers....
The seediest I've gotten in here is walking through the neighborhood where the go-go bars are located, which is quite harrowing. I had met an Australian and we walked through in all of about 1 minute, as each door had a band of merry men outside trying to get you to go in. Some even went so far as to grab and pull... needless to say I didn't go in and I haven't been near them since.
I did find a respectable massage parlor. Upon going upstairs my masseuse was so small I felt like I would be disappointed. Instead, I was in pain for about an hour. People have called Thai massage "passive yoga." I would akin it more to getting the snot beaten out of you by a professional wrestler in slow motion... for an hour. I can't really complain though, afterwards I felt like a million bucks and ended up going back the next day (at $7.50 an hour, who wouldn't?).
My final observation in Bangkok (at least for now) is that the taxi's are actually cheaper than the tuk tuk's, which is outrageous. The taxi's are on a meter, and the tuk tuks get to negotiate a price. For a fair that was 90 baht in rush hour traffic in a taxi (most of which is spent at a stand sill) I could not find a tuk tuk to take me for less than 200! They are so used to tourists over paying them that they simply refuse to go any lower. I had one accept an offer of 40 baht, only to say that I had to go with him to an emporium on the way... I got out of the tuk tuk.
Yesterday, I left Bangkok for a smaller, less polluted, more historical setting: Ayutthaya. It took about an hour and a half by bus to be free of Bangkok's sprawl, and I still don't feel quite free from the pollution.
Ayutthaya is beautiful, and the ruins are very impressive. I spent today walking around Ayutthaya historical park and soaking in the old capital of the kingdom of Thailand. The ruins are much less preserved than I would have expected after only being abandoned for a few hundred years, although war certainly had it's toll on the capital. (Thai museums and monuments tend to lack the descriptive plaques found in the west... so I'm not exactly sure of the historical details of each building)

Ayutthaya has many of these lizards living in the canals and sewer systems.

Ant piles are a bit bigger in Thailand...

The craziest food I've ever eaten... Imagine a Banana Omelett wrapped in philo crust and covered with sweetened condensed milk, sugar, and chocolate.

Street food is King of the 'Kok

I had been searching for delicious Thai food ever since my arrival. I had tried, in vain, to find a restaurant that would live up to the expectations set Oy's cooking at the drunken poet in Sarasota, only to be disappointed time and time again.

It was in between these adventures that I discovered the real secret to eating well in Bangkok: Street food. I had been led to believe that a restaurant, being 3X (or much more) expensive than street food simply had to be better. I was terribly wrong. I've found that if you spend more than a dollar for your meal, chances are it's not going to be any good. Below are some pictures of one day of street food, breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Breakfast, coconut pudding freshly made. Not particularly healthy, but very good.

Lunch from the nicest people around, about 3 blocks from my Guest House.

Best Pad Thai in town, excellent smoothies.

The best food in Bangkok, so far. 1 dish is 25 baht, 2 is 30, and 3 are 35.
(32 baht = 1 dollar)

Adjustments

Well, I've been in Thailand for about 4 days now, and I finally got a good night's sleep last night. As much as I'm sure I will glamorize it in the coming months, international travel is tough. This is my first time in a totally foreign place all by my lonesome and it sure did take some adjusting.
The flight was quite pleasant, actually. From Atlanta to Seoul I had access to several movies I could watch whenever I pleased at a console in my seat. From Seoul to Bangkok the plane was so empty I got to lie out on a whole row and sleep the flight away. Still, it was 30 hours of travel.
I got in at around 11 pm shared a taxi with two very kind Australians which left me wandering in unknown territory (their hotel wasn't as close to khao san--the tourist district--as they had said). I ended up staying in a very expensive place for my first night (1200 baht, about 40 dollars). It was nice to have a luxurious hotel for my first night, complete with air conditioner and hot shower, but the price is not something I can live with in the long term. Having just slept on the plane, I decided I wasn't too tired to walk around a bit and check out the city. I'm not sure exactly when I got to bed, but I woke up around 11:20 (40 minutes to check out) with no intention of staying at this hotel another night. I scrambled to pull my belongings together and rushed out the door.
I was exhausted and overpacked, my head hurt and my stomach was none too pleased. I got lost, again, wandered for about an hour in agony, until eventually finding my new home away from home at the "green house." It's very acceptable, about 260 baht (8 bucks) a night, and has a cheap internet cafe and baggage storage so I won't have to lug my life with me in my first travels through thailand.
It took four days, but now I am approaching natural circadian rythms, and life is stabilizing again. I have a cell phone for job hunting (it was my big job for my second day, despite my abysmal physical state) and have contated prospective employers concerning my arrival.
I hope to have pictures to send soon, although I believe I used the wrong plug adapter and have broken my battery charger so it appears I will have to buy batteries (unless I can find another charger). I hate to use American (or western) based bussiness in foreign countries... I didn't fly to the other side of the world to go to 7-11's and Mcdonald's, after all. But, it appears that the 7-11's have pushed all the local convenience type stores out of business (at least in my corner of Bangkok.)