So, I was there in bed, letting the painkillers and my first real chance to relax finally sink in. I decided that I could not come all this way for nothing, I had to see the balls of fire. Despite everything, I would go back again that night. I talked to Trevor, and he agreed. I was going to go.
I hobbled my way to a tuk tuk and got a ride to the bus station only to find out something terrible. I could get there, but I would not be able to get back, this was the last bus to or from Pon Pisai. What would I do? It would be bad enough to be there for a couple hours on crutches, but all night? I wasn't very keen on the idea of visiting my adopted family again, accommodating as they were...
As I stood there contemplating my decision a "friendly stranger" (which should have been my first clue) suggested I take a taxi. I asked how much that would cost and he said I would have to negotiate... next thing I knew, he was running off to get someone for me to negotiate with.
He arrived with a gentleman and we began discussing the terms. He would take me there and bring me back at 11pm for 800 baht. It was expensive, but again, I couldn't have come this far not to see the naga fireballs, so I accepted.
He walked me to his truck, collected the money, and left me there to make preparations. As I sat there, I realized that this was exactly the sort of thing that can get you into some trouble, or at least stranded. I should have only paid half, but I didn't have the correct change to do that, and didn't want to make a fuss. I quickly pushed the idea of any shenanigans out of my head. Thais can be annoying, and even greedy, but they would not leave a crippled man stranded in a strange city...
A few minutes passed, and later a man got into the car, saying he was the driver's friend. Fair enough, I thought, he'll be stuck there for 3 hours, might as well have someone to hang out with. No problem, mai pen rai.
As our trip began, the friend in the back pulled out a bottle of whiskey and handed it to me. It was still sealed, so I knew it would be safe to drink. This worried me a bit, but it was a small bottle, certainly not enough to get someone drinking a 3rd of it too drunk to drive, so I took a swig and passed it back.
The driver hit it like a pro, draining a sizable portion of the bottle with every turn, and definitely got more than his 3rd. Still, he didn't seem drunk in the least, and we were almost there.
Finally, we turned off somewhere. We pulled into a dark parking lot near a little shop, and the friend in the back told me "fireball" and pointed at the river. I insisted they take me to Pon Pisai, at which he remarked, "oh, you've been there?" I said yes. He tried to get me to accept this location but I very emphatically insisted on Pon Pisai.
The friend talked to the driver who returned with a much bigger bottle of whisky, and we were on our way again. I stopped sharing at this point. Another 10 minutes, and the friend (who I guess was the nominated liar/sleazebag) said "only there, you pay to come back." I once again got emphatic, although they didn't seem very convinced, and I knew I didn't have much power at this point.
So, when they stopped and let me off, I hobbled to the back of the truck, got my crutches, and very visibly entered their license plate number into my cell phone. Then, I said "If you're not back in 3 hours, I call the police." I began to hobble towards the river, really hamming it up, and they quickly followed with a matt to sit on and the whiskey. The expressions on their faces were feigned concern for me, overshadowed by concern for themselves. Thank god I had the license plate number.
At this point, I didn't even want to ride back with them, I certainly didn't want to sit by the river with them for 3 hours. But they were faster than me, and if I told them to leave me alone I probably wouldn't see them again. They kept trying to offer me whiskey, and I refused most of the time, although I had begun to decide riding back with them was not an option and I may as well get something out of the deal.
Shortly after sitting down, they began harassing girls around us. Telling them to come sit with me. Saying loudly I should go home with them. It was horrible. I looked visibly distressed, and pathetically stranded, and luckily, one of the girls spoke just enough English to compliment my Thai.
We talked and I explained as much as I could. I told her not to worry, "I'm not a bad person like them." I eventually even told her I had a boyfriend, so she wouldn't think I would try something untoward. It turns out, she was at the river with her girlfriend and little brother, and was from Nong Khai (where my hotel was), and yes, she would give me a ride home.
I quickly told the two guys to go away. It took some doing, and I had to put up with what I'm sure were off-color comments about going home with the girl, but finally, they left.
The girls and little brother were incredibly kind. We hung out, talked, the brother was sent to buy me food and water since I couldn't walk, and eventually we even sent up fire balloons for good luck. They gave me a ride home and I couldn't have been happier for my second adoptive Thai family.
On my final day of the long weekend, I went to Laos which was uneventful and uninteresting. I walked around Vientiene long enough to say that I had done it, and went back to Nong Khai after about 3 hours.
That evening, I went to the final night of a food festival in Nongkhai. I hobbled there, expecting a smallish gathering of food stalls and a few dozen families. Oh no. A few hundred meters down the bank of Mekhong was covered with food stalls, stages, and even a small carnival.
The first stage I walked past was preparing for something, I wasn't sure what, and I just walked on by. The stage at the end of the strip, next to the carnival was a full on Thai rock band concert. I grabbed a few odds and ends no the way (one of which, I think, was fried chicken cartilage, another was a corn kernel sundae. Yep. Steamed corn kernels with coconut milk, chocolate sauce, sprinkles, and a candy cherry-like ball on top) and sat down for the show.
After about 5 minutes, two boys asked if they could sit with me, and I told them sure. Another few minutes passed and I had been enveloped in a very large Thai family that immediately insisted on getting me drunk and feeding me. My 3rd adoption. I shared whiskey and beer with them happily, but the food I tried my best to politely refuse.
You can only refuse so much, unfortunately. I had vaguely wanted to try squid (I think that's what it was? maybe octopus?) so, I went for that one to ease their pestering. Oh it was terrible. Salty and fishy and it was all I could do not to spit it out or throw it up. I chewed and swallowed as quickly as physics would allow and drowned it with a considerable amount of beer. I thanked them, and was rather persistent about refusing anything else...
On my way back, I ran into someone who worked at my hotel and sat with them for a bit. He asked me if I had seen the lady boy contest. Lady boy contest? Apparently, that was what the stage was set up for. Thais of all ages and persuasions were seated around a giant stage (in the center of the festival) where 30 or so lady boys competed (I guess for the most beautiful?).
I watched for a bit, although it was much more like a beauty pageant than anything else, and I lost interest quickly. On my way back I ran into some Europeans (a healthy mixture of Germans and swedes and I'm not sure what else) and got invited for a beer. I went, ended up discussing politics and travel over a beer and a football game and finally went home to bed, ending my weekend in Northeast Thailand.
Pictures will be up soon, although not many. The conjunction of camera problems and computer problems are working against me...
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Sunday, October 28, 2007
The post of a thousand titles... Part I
This weekend has been a ridiculous mix of amazing highs and terrible, terrible lows. As the weekend progressed, I rattled dozens of possible titles through my head, none of which could hope to capture what has happened to me... This will be a long post.
It has been a while since my last post. Trevor has been in town which has occupied much of my time, and we moved to a new part of Bangkok where Internet access is more expensive and less accessible... and I've been a bit lazy and not much has happened...
But! On Thursday night, Trevor sent me a message telling me that the following evening in Nong Khai, a small town in northeast Thailand, there would be the bang fhaa naak nom festival. Once per year, so legend says, a gateway to the underworld opens up under the Mekhong river allowing the Nagas who live there to breathe balls of fire out of the river and into the air. Of course, there are various scientific theories about what the balls actually are, but nothing has been proven.
So, I hoped on a bus--totally unplanned--on Friday morning and began my 11 hour trip to Nong Khai. The bus for the majority of the trip, from Bangkok to Udon Thani, was very luxurious. Meals were served, the seats afforded plenty of room, and there were movies played. Despite the length it was certainly bearable.
Eventually I reached Nong Khai, only to find out that the festival was actually an hour away in Pon Pisai and started in 2 hours. I panicked and got a tuk tuk (rickshaw) to a recommended guest house which was full. Posted on the door was a sign "If you are going to the fireball festival, be in the courtyard by 1:30. Due to traffic we will have to leave early in order to make it on time."
Needless to say I panicked. It was nearly 6:00. Could I possibly make it to the festival so late? I ran to the road and got another tuk tuk back to the bus station where I immediately got on a bus to Pon Pisai. I talked to a few people on the way, asking the sorts of questions you would expect. Have you been before? Do you know when to get off? Where did you come from? I was the only westerner on the bus, and the Thais didn't seem the least bit concerned about making it on time, which was very relieving.
I arrived at the Pon Pisai bus station a little after 7 and got a tuk tuk to the festival which, truthfully, I could have walked to. I wandered around what appeared more like a county fair than a spiritual festival, with food stalls, cheap toy vendors, various mini-stages and displays set up by companies like Nokia, real estate agents, etc., all spanning the length of the Mekhong river where people were seated and standing by the thousands staring out into the river.
I began to wander around, realizing that truly, there was no need to have hurried. The festival was obviously here for the evening. Although I may not get a great seat, the river was visible from quite a ways a way and the slope allowed for plenty of people. I wandered up and down the river, talking to people and looking for the mythic bursts of flame. After a couple hours, I began to ask around, and chatted with various thai families, groups of drunk teenagers, and 1 or 2 fellow foreigners. No one had seen any yet. I was told by one gentleman from England that the last time he was here they started at 9:20... it was 9:45, they must be late he concluded.
10:00 came, then 10:30, and finally 11... still no fireballs. People were beginning to give up, the festival was emptying. I had no hotel and all the ones in Pon Pisai were booked full (tents were scattered about the river and on vacant lots everywhere). I had traveled 13 hours for nothing.
After 11:00 I decided to make my way to the bank of the river and sleep in one of the few unlittered patches of grass (left behind by some large families' mat). And then, the worst thing ever happened.
I took one step, then another, on the stadium seating-type cemented levels. On the second step there had been some stones jutting out of the cement, my foot landed just wrong, twisted, and the next moment I was on the floor in shock from the pain.
Some English speakers were nearby and asked if I was okay. In my sock and embarrassment I said yes, I would be fine. Eventually they left, asking once more and once more I said I would be fine, and then I was left alone. There were a few groups of drunks around me who assumed I must be drunker, and began to laugh and say something about the farang in Thai.
I must have been there, lying on the cement for a half hour to an hour. Filled with a torturing mixture of shock, terror, and pain, and totally hopeless. What would I do? Where would I go? I could crawl further down, and sleep on the grass hoping to be better by morning, but then I would only have further to climb up if I wasn't.
I could go up, hope to make it to a tuk tuk (at least a block or two away) with my heavy bag... or should I leave my bag? If I did make it to a tuk tuk, then what? Hotel? none to go to. Bus straight to Bangkok? Would there even be one this late? Hospital? No insurance, how much would it cost?
Finally, I decided the bank of the Mekhong was not the best choice. Still unsure of what I was doing. I made my way to the top of "steps," and froze. I saw a few motor bikes go by, but didn't feel confident enough to ask for a lift, or confident that I could ride one with my ankle, and eventually began to hobble down the street with a bag full of clothes and books.
About halfway down the block, I saw three white guys sitting with a Thai family. Maybe they could help? I looked at them, and they tried their best to ignore me. The Thai family, however, wasn't going to let me pass. I was adopted, thank god.
They gave me a place to sit, and showered me with (mostly unwanted) kindness and hospitality. They insisted on giving me sodas and beer, which could not be refused. Nor could the pressing of the ice into my ankle (which was torturous), nor the foot massage (which was skilled and not as bad).
I had essentially been given a harem. 6-10 women, all doting on me, flirting with me, telling me how handsome I was. Asking if I had a girlfriend. I said "yes." Was it serious? Where was she? Was she Thai? Did I want a Thai girlfriend? They wanted Farang husbands... Did I like them? Did I like the lady-boy in the back? What about the man to my left?
"No, no thank you. Yes, we're very serious. You are just as beautiful but I love her more."
Finally, they offered me a place to sleep. I would be sharing a tent with someone's son, who looked none to pleased, but he seemed to be a generally angsty teenager and not upset about this particular situation, just life in general. So, I said yes, if it was okay with him.
I awoke the next morning, trapped by the sleeper. I waited for him to shift so that I could crawl around him, and hobbled to the nearest chair where I sat for about an hour. One of the white men, who I learned were from Norway, was still awake with one of the women. They were enjoying a breakfast of beer and potato chips. Eventually I made my way to their table, and was trapped once again.
"Are you okay? Foot better?"
"No, I need crutches, where can I get crutches?"
No further discussion. Forced to drink coke and eat potato chips. I was asked several times throughout the morning if I was hungry, if I was better. If I said yes, I'm hungry, they just smiled. If I said I need to go to the hospital, they just smiled. I didn't want to impose, but I was completely trapped.
The Norwegian tried to convince me not to go to the hospital... to wait it out. Put tiger balm and ice on it and I would be fine. As nice as they were being, I was not excited about being trapped with them for 3-4 days. "No, I need to get crutches."
Later, the other two Norwegians joined the table. One was quiet enough, but the other was visibly upset. Eventually, he went into some sort of tirade, gesturing towards me and saying the word American in between all the Norwegian babble. He got to the point where I though he would cry, or stab me, and then put his hands down and began eating his breakfast and looking hopeless. Definitely not the actions of a stable, rational person. I can only guess that he thought I was imposing, but the way they were treating this family it was hard to take it seriously. They ordered them about like servants, not a single please or thank you as they informed them they wanted breakfast, or more coffee, or this or that. I was certainly the more gracious guest.
Eventually I was told someone would take me to the hospital. With every passing hour I asked "can you just get me a tuk tuk, I'll be fine." No, they insisted, Pi will take you, 10 minutes. 20 minues. 10 minutes. 15 minutes.
Finally, Pi arrived with his wife and they took me to the hospital. I got my x-ray, my ace bandage, some painkillers, and blessedly, crutches. The whole thing cost about 500 baht, 15 dollars. Thank God.
They began to take me back to the house in a tuk tuk and I asked to be dropped off at the bus station. I'd had enough hospitality for one day. Everyone I met was immensely helpful, I made it back to Nong Khai, and made my way to the Mut Mee guest house which had been full the night before, but looked like the type of place I could get some help.
The owner (a farang) was wonderful. He called a guest house nearby and got me a room. Two other guests offered to carry my bag for me and accompanied me to the Ruang Thai. The people at the guest house looked shocked. The owner of the Mut mee hadn't told them about the crutches, the room they had was on the second floor.
I said I could manage, but they insisted otherwise and arranged a first floor room for me, helped me carry my bags. I would have to move the next day, but again, they would help me. I laid down for a bit, ate, took my painkiller, and finally felt better.
That's only half of it!
To be Continued!!!
It has been a while since my last post. Trevor has been in town which has occupied much of my time, and we moved to a new part of Bangkok where Internet access is more expensive and less accessible... and I've been a bit lazy and not much has happened...
But! On Thursday night, Trevor sent me a message telling me that the following evening in Nong Khai, a small town in northeast Thailand, there would be the bang fhaa naak nom festival. Once per year, so legend says, a gateway to the underworld opens up under the Mekhong river allowing the Nagas who live there to breathe balls of fire out of the river and into the air. Of course, there are various scientific theories about what the balls actually are, but nothing has been proven.
So, I hoped on a bus--totally unplanned--on Friday morning and began my 11 hour trip to Nong Khai. The bus for the majority of the trip, from Bangkok to Udon Thani, was very luxurious. Meals were served, the seats afforded plenty of room, and there were movies played. Despite the length it was certainly bearable.
Eventually I reached Nong Khai, only to find out that the festival was actually an hour away in Pon Pisai and started in 2 hours. I panicked and got a tuk tuk (rickshaw) to a recommended guest house which was full. Posted on the door was a sign "If you are going to the fireball festival, be in the courtyard by 1:30. Due to traffic we will have to leave early in order to make it on time."
Needless to say I panicked. It was nearly 6:00. Could I possibly make it to the festival so late? I ran to the road and got another tuk tuk back to the bus station where I immediately got on a bus to Pon Pisai. I talked to a few people on the way, asking the sorts of questions you would expect. Have you been before? Do you know when to get off? Where did you come from? I was the only westerner on the bus, and the Thais didn't seem the least bit concerned about making it on time, which was very relieving.
I arrived at the Pon Pisai bus station a little after 7 and got a tuk tuk to the festival which, truthfully, I could have walked to. I wandered around what appeared more like a county fair than a spiritual festival, with food stalls, cheap toy vendors, various mini-stages and displays set up by companies like Nokia, real estate agents, etc., all spanning the length of the Mekhong river where people were seated and standing by the thousands staring out into the river.
I began to wander around, realizing that truly, there was no need to have hurried. The festival was obviously here for the evening. Although I may not get a great seat, the river was visible from quite a ways a way and the slope allowed for plenty of people. I wandered up and down the river, talking to people and looking for the mythic bursts of flame. After a couple hours, I began to ask around, and chatted with various thai families, groups of drunk teenagers, and 1 or 2 fellow foreigners. No one had seen any yet. I was told by one gentleman from England that the last time he was here they started at 9:20... it was 9:45, they must be late he concluded.
10:00 came, then 10:30, and finally 11... still no fireballs. People were beginning to give up, the festival was emptying. I had no hotel and all the ones in Pon Pisai were booked full (tents were scattered about the river and on vacant lots everywhere). I had traveled 13 hours for nothing.
After 11:00 I decided to make my way to the bank of the river and sleep in one of the few unlittered patches of grass (left behind by some large families' mat). And then, the worst thing ever happened.
I took one step, then another, on the stadium seating-type cemented levels. On the second step there had been some stones jutting out of the cement, my foot landed just wrong, twisted, and the next moment I was on the floor in shock from the pain.
Some English speakers were nearby and asked if I was okay. In my sock and embarrassment I said yes, I would be fine. Eventually they left, asking once more and once more I said I would be fine, and then I was left alone. There were a few groups of drunks around me who assumed I must be drunker, and began to laugh and say something about the farang in Thai.
I must have been there, lying on the cement for a half hour to an hour. Filled with a torturing mixture of shock, terror, and pain, and totally hopeless. What would I do? Where would I go? I could crawl further down, and sleep on the grass hoping to be better by morning, but then I would only have further to climb up if I wasn't.
I could go up, hope to make it to a tuk tuk (at least a block or two away) with my heavy bag... or should I leave my bag? If I did make it to a tuk tuk, then what? Hotel? none to go to. Bus straight to Bangkok? Would there even be one this late? Hospital? No insurance, how much would it cost?
Finally, I decided the bank of the Mekhong was not the best choice. Still unsure of what I was doing. I made my way to the top of "steps," and froze. I saw a few motor bikes go by, but didn't feel confident enough to ask for a lift, or confident that I could ride one with my ankle, and eventually began to hobble down the street with a bag full of clothes and books.
About halfway down the block, I saw three white guys sitting with a Thai family. Maybe they could help? I looked at them, and they tried their best to ignore me. The Thai family, however, wasn't going to let me pass. I was adopted, thank god.
They gave me a place to sit, and showered me with (mostly unwanted) kindness and hospitality. They insisted on giving me sodas and beer, which could not be refused. Nor could the pressing of the ice into my ankle (which was torturous), nor the foot massage (which was skilled and not as bad).
I had essentially been given a harem. 6-10 women, all doting on me, flirting with me, telling me how handsome I was. Asking if I had a girlfriend. I said "yes." Was it serious? Where was she? Was she Thai? Did I want a Thai girlfriend? They wanted Farang husbands... Did I like them? Did I like the lady-boy in the back? What about the man to my left?
"No, no thank you. Yes, we're very serious. You are just as beautiful but I love her more."
Finally, they offered me a place to sleep. I would be sharing a tent with someone's son, who looked none to pleased, but he seemed to be a generally angsty teenager and not upset about this particular situation, just life in general. So, I said yes, if it was okay with him.
I awoke the next morning, trapped by the sleeper. I waited for him to shift so that I could crawl around him, and hobbled to the nearest chair where I sat for about an hour. One of the white men, who I learned were from Norway, was still awake with one of the women. They were enjoying a breakfast of beer and potato chips. Eventually I made my way to their table, and was trapped once again.
"Are you okay? Foot better?"
"No, I need crutches, where can I get crutches?"
No further discussion. Forced to drink coke and eat potato chips. I was asked several times throughout the morning if I was hungry, if I was better. If I said yes, I'm hungry, they just smiled. If I said I need to go to the hospital, they just smiled. I didn't want to impose, but I was completely trapped.
The Norwegian tried to convince me not to go to the hospital... to wait it out. Put tiger balm and ice on it and I would be fine. As nice as they were being, I was not excited about being trapped with them for 3-4 days. "No, I need to get crutches."
Later, the other two Norwegians joined the table. One was quiet enough, but the other was visibly upset. Eventually, he went into some sort of tirade, gesturing towards me and saying the word American in between all the Norwegian babble. He got to the point where I though he would cry, or stab me, and then put his hands down and began eating his breakfast and looking hopeless. Definitely not the actions of a stable, rational person. I can only guess that he thought I was imposing, but the way they were treating this family it was hard to take it seriously. They ordered them about like servants, not a single please or thank you as they informed them they wanted breakfast, or more coffee, or this or that. I was certainly the more gracious guest.
Eventually I was told someone would take me to the hospital. With every passing hour I asked "can you just get me a tuk tuk, I'll be fine." No, they insisted, Pi will take you, 10 minutes. 20 minues. 10 minutes. 15 minutes.
Finally, Pi arrived with his wife and they took me to the hospital. I got my x-ray, my ace bandage, some painkillers, and blessedly, crutches. The whole thing cost about 500 baht, 15 dollars. Thank God.
They began to take me back to the house in a tuk tuk and I asked to be dropped off at the bus station. I'd had enough hospitality for one day. Everyone I met was immensely helpful, I made it back to Nong Khai, and made my way to the Mut Mee guest house which had been full the night before, but looked like the type of place I could get some help.
The owner (a farang) was wonderful. He called a guest house nearby and got me a room. Two other guests offered to carry my bag for me and accompanied me to the Ruang Thai. The people at the guest house looked shocked. The owner of the Mut mee hadn't told them about the crutches, the room they had was on the second floor.
I said I could manage, but they insisted otherwise and arranged a first floor room for me, helped me carry my bags. I would have to move the next day, but again, they would help me. I laid down for a bit, ate, took my painkiller, and finally felt better.
That's only half of it!
To be Continued!!!
Friday, October 19, 2007
Some New Sights
Yesterday I found myself in a new part of Bangkok. Essentially it is of very little interest to tourists, but I was there to interview for a "just in case JP education turns out to be totally whack" job. I got the job, paying a little less than the great one I turned down but also working alot less... In general, though, I wasn't impressed with the school or the headmaster (who's only criterion for hiring seemed to be that I had a legitimate master's degree...)
Anyway, after I left the Interview I wandered around and snapped some pictures... Earlier in the day I went to the amulet market (for the second time) with "Mr. Canadian," as I like to call him. He was dressed in a bright red hat (with the Canadian maple leaf), a bright red shirt (with the Canadian maple leaf) and was wearing shorts which showed off his bright red Canadian maple leaf tattoo... very stunning. Below are some pictures of my journeys.
First in the day was the amulet market, Which begins on a street
running along a Wat and continues and spreads along the river.
One of the larger amulet stalls. Amulets come in all shapes and sizes. Usually once you purchase one you also purchase a plastic circular container and a cord to hang it around your neck with....
For lunch I ate at one of the many vegetarian stalls around right now. There is a Thai-Chinese holiday (which has a handful of origin legends) during which Thai-Chinese eat vegetarian and a vast array of vegetarian-only food stalls can be found around the city. They each fly red and yellow banners letting prospectives know they can find all vegetarian fare here.
Later in the day, I found myself in the cleaner upscale business district...
and found the face of fear.
Later on I met "Mr. Yes" who seemed nice enough...
Until I found him stalking me.
This picture is in honour of my friend Daniel. I have often heard him speak about the "white hats" at construction sites. The bosses who don't do much work themselves but always expect you to look busy... By the looks of their clothes, it seems that some things are universal...
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
And...
Leaving Ko Chang...
And some "Magic Lamps" that seem to be popular in Thailand (at least for the tourist sections...). You essentially buy a jigsaw kit and construct them to your liking... I may have to get a few kits before I come home, if I can find them cheap (so far they're around 20 bucks for a pack of pieces, and I have no idea how much of a lamp that would make...
Even the gas stations on the highways have markets here. Of course, there was the standard "mini mart" one would expect, but surrounding it was a market of delicious street food. This was on the way from Cambodia to Bangkok.
A New Day
Today I'm feeling great. Yesterday I figured out the bus system (at least one bus, anyway), found an Thai language class I'm willing to give a shot for a bit, and went for a lovely walk in a nearby park. Accepting the idea that Bangkok was to be my home for a bit was a great idea and I've found myself a new sense of purpose.
Here are some pictures of Lumphini Park in Bangkok:
Here are some pictures of Lumphini Park in Bangkok:
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
A Bird in the Hand is Worth 2 in the Bush...
and... A Rolling Stone Gathers no Moss.
When I made my decision about the job I failed to figure in the fact that I would be stuck in Bangkok for another 2 weeks with very little to do. Also, it now seems that Trevor's research permit may take quite a while to process, possibly longer than my job will last.
The headhunter who is hiring me for the school seems to be a bit of a fly-by-night operation. I went in to sign my agreement with them on Saturday and there were 4 large bottles of beer emptied on the desk which was situated in a very messy office. Granted, I won't be working with these people, and they have no baring whatsoever on the school, but it sure does a great deal to lower my confidence about the whole affair. I was supposed to go to the school with someone from their office to say hello and finalize things today, but they've put it off until next Wednesday...
So, now I am again in Bangkok with just enough responsibilities spread out just far enough to not make it worth it to leave, but not have much to do while I'm here. I've begun researching various courses I can take and have decided to swing by a Thai language school today and inquire about classes (I think it's a drop in pay-as-you go system... so perhaps I can just fill up most of my time there) and I'm beginning to look into cooking courses. Although certain Thai dishes seem like they would be easy enough to approximate, others are a complete mystery to me.
I've started reading a good bit on Buddhism and if I had the next 2 weeks sans responsibilities I would definitely be looking into a couple weeks of meditation retreat. Gloriously, such retreats are usually free and include accommodation and food. Although, one has to be willing to live like a monk in most respects, and a donation is suggested (not by the monastery, but in general).
That's my check in... for the most part I'm listless and bored, but motivated to not stay that way.
When I made my decision about the job I failed to figure in the fact that I would be stuck in Bangkok for another 2 weeks with very little to do. Also, it now seems that Trevor's research permit may take quite a while to process, possibly longer than my job will last.
The headhunter who is hiring me for the school seems to be a bit of a fly-by-night operation. I went in to sign my agreement with them on Saturday and there were 4 large bottles of beer emptied on the desk which was situated in a very messy office. Granted, I won't be working with these people, and they have no baring whatsoever on the school, but it sure does a great deal to lower my confidence about the whole affair. I was supposed to go to the school with someone from their office to say hello and finalize things today, but they've put it off until next Wednesday...
So, now I am again in Bangkok with just enough responsibilities spread out just far enough to not make it worth it to leave, but not have much to do while I'm here. I've begun researching various courses I can take and have decided to swing by a Thai language school today and inquire about classes (I think it's a drop in pay-as-you go system... so perhaps I can just fill up most of my time there) and I'm beginning to look into cooking courses. Although certain Thai dishes seem like they would be easy enough to approximate, others are a complete mystery to me.
I've started reading a good bit on Buddhism and if I had the next 2 weeks sans responsibilities I would definitely be looking into a couple weeks of meditation retreat. Gloriously, such retreats are usually free and include accommodation and food. Although, one has to be willing to live like a monk in most respects, and a donation is suggested (not by the monastery, but in general).
That's my check in... for the most part I'm listless and bored, but motivated to not stay that way.
Friday, October 12, 2007
A Visa Run and a Very Difficult Decision
It's been a whirlwind couple of days. My last day in Ko Chang was relatively uneventful. I spent most of the day relaxing and planning a lesson plan (introduction to Sensation and Perception) for a demo lesson I was going to do for a very fancy job in Bangkok.
The next day I left on a package deal to make a Visa Run to Cambodia. The "free visa" you get as an American in Thailand only lasts for 30 days at a time. You can renew it 3 times in every 6 month period, but doing so means leaving the country (if only for a minute) and coming back in. Because I had an interview to get to, I did the hop-out hop-in scenario. Everything I had read warned of scores of child beggars at the border. Of course there were some, but certainly fewer than I had expected.
In general, from what little I saw of it and heard from other travellers, Cambodia is a much dirtier less "pleasant" place than Thailand. Once you cross the border everything just seemed dirtier and run-down. The difference wasn't striking, per se, but certainly noticeable.
The whole process of getting a Cambodian Visa, getting across the border, and getting back took about 2 hours and 35 dollars (although it should only have cost 20, I later found out). This, of course, doesn't include transportation, the grand total of which cam out to another 30 dollars or so from Koh Chang to the Cambodian border and then on the Bangkok.
Having found out that a pre-purchased 2 month Visa costs only 40 dollars with no day long grueling visa runs, I wish that I had planned ahead a bit better...
I arrived in Bangkok at about 7 pm, checked in to my hotel, and found an internet shop to type up my lesson plan. Early to bed, early to rise, and before I know it I'm on my way to Wells International School in Bangkok. Quite the establishment.
Wells is a secure campus, with gates and only one entrance during school hours. It has an indoor basketball court, pool, delicious cafeteria food (including vegetarian options), air conditioned classrooms, an auditorium, and enthusiastic staff. The Headmaster was a wonderful man who welcomed me warmly and made me feel very comfortable at Wells.
The class I taught was wonderful, and quite small (12 students). The students were shy but well behaved with good personalities and seemed to know each other quite well. I had a great time teaching the class, as the subject matter was something I am very interested in (psychology). Overall the school was great.
Then, he told me about the pay. A clean double what I would make teaching in a village. More than enough to live in the lap of luxury in Bangkok, generally wanting for nothing, and still saving about 500 dollars a month.
But, it was not meant to be. After talking to Trevor, and also Daniel about it, I decided that I would turn down the job... painfully. In the end, I did not fly to the other side of the planet to teach at a highly westernized school. I came here to learn Thai, teach Thai kids, and even live in a Thai village, which is what I will do.
Today, I will go to an office in Bangkok sometime in the afternoon and sign a 4 month contract to teach in Uthai Thani. The pay is less, the classes are larger, and the village is very remote. But, I will be teaching an age I am much more comfortable with, and getting a genuinely "Thai" experience. It's not Wells, but it's one of the best jobs I've seen in a village.
In the end, it's only for four months, and jobs in Bangkok, even fancy high-paying ones, are a dime a dozen. I wasn't even looking for a job in Bangkok and I found a great one. If I decide I should have worked in the big city I can just do it in May...
The next day I left on a package deal to make a Visa Run to Cambodia. The "free visa" you get as an American in Thailand only lasts for 30 days at a time. You can renew it 3 times in every 6 month period, but doing so means leaving the country (if only for a minute) and coming back in. Because I had an interview to get to, I did the hop-out hop-in scenario. Everything I had read warned of scores of child beggars at the border. Of course there were some, but certainly fewer than I had expected.
In general, from what little I saw of it and heard from other travellers, Cambodia is a much dirtier less "pleasant" place than Thailand. Once you cross the border everything just seemed dirtier and run-down. The difference wasn't striking, per se, but certainly noticeable.
The whole process of getting a Cambodian Visa, getting across the border, and getting back took about 2 hours and 35 dollars (although it should only have cost 20, I later found out). This, of course, doesn't include transportation, the grand total of which cam out to another 30 dollars or so from Koh Chang to the Cambodian border and then on the Bangkok.
Having found out that a pre-purchased 2 month Visa costs only 40 dollars with no day long grueling visa runs, I wish that I had planned ahead a bit better...
I arrived in Bangkok at about 7 pm, checked in to my hotel, and found an internet shop to type up my lesson plan. Early to bed, early to rise, and before I know it I'm on my way to Wells International School in Bangkok. Quite the establishment.
Wells is a secure campus, with gates and only one entrance during school hours. It has an indoor basketball court, pool, delicious cafeteria food (including vegetarian options), air conditioned classrooms, an auditorium, and enthusiastic staff. The Headmaster was a wonderful man who welcomed me warmly and made me feel very comfortable at Wells.
The class I taught was wonderful, and quite small (12 students). The students were shy but well behaved with good personalities and seemed to know each other quite well. I had a great time teaching the class, as the subject matter was something I am very interested in (psychology). Overall the school was great.
Then, he told me about the pay. A clean double what I would make teaching in a village. More than enough to live in the lap of luxury in Bangkok, generally wanting for nothing, and still saving about 500 dollars a month.
But, it was not meant to be. After talking to Trevor, and also Daniel about it, I decided that I would turn down the job... painfully. In the end, I did not fly to the other side of the planet to teach at a highly westernized school. I came here to learn Thai, teach Thai kids, and even live in a Thai village, which is what I will do.
Today, I will go to an office in Bangkok sometime in the afternoon and sign a 4 month contract to teach in Uthai Thani. The pay is less, the classes are larger, and the village is very remote. But, I will be teaching an age I am much more comfortable with, and getting a genuinely "Thai" experience. It's not Wells, but it's one of the best jobs I've seen in a village.
In the end, it's only for four months, and jobs in Bangkok, even fancy high-paying ones, are a dime a dozen. I wasn't even looking for a job in Bangkok and I found a great one. If I decide I should have worked in the big city I can just do it in May...
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Hostel in the Thailand...
My new room doesn't have AC, a lot of space, bountiful shelving, or even sealed walls. It's a bamboo hut on a beach and it is my favorite so far. I arrived on Ko Chang and made my way for the most populated beach "White sands beach." I had planned to stay at a place called Bo's Bungalows but the tide was in and I would not be able to walk to it for 2 more hours. Rather than wait, I decided to check out where I had planned to stay the next night, Tree House Hotel.
For those of you who have been to the Hostel in the Forest, this place is about as close as I would expect Thailand to get. Although the rooms aren't actually tree houses, more like bamboo huts on stilts, it is amazing. The atmosphere is decidely bohemian, with a wonderful deck, complete with thatch roof and hammocks, overlooking the bay. The restaurant attached to the place, although expensive, is excellent and I have met some really great travelers. All this for a whopping 80 baht ($2.40)!
For those of you who have been to the Hostel in the Forest, this place is about as close as I would expect Thailand to get. Although the rooms aren't actually tree houses, more like bamboo huts on stilts, it is amazing. The atmosphere is decidely bohemian, with a wonderful deck, complete with thatch roof and hammocks, overlooking the bay. The restaurant attached to the place, although expensive, is excellent and I have met some really great travelers. All this for a whopping 80 baht ($2.40)!
The deck/restaurant
And, of course, this is on a beautiful tropical island, the center of which is a nationally protected tropical rainforest. Today, I made a trip to Nam Tok Klong Plu. Although it didn't take me through much tropical forest... I did get to spend about 3+ hours swimming in an amazing pool underneath the falls... and pay 400 baht for the privelage. 400 baht was definately a bit pricey. Thais only pay 20 and although I understand paying more, 400 is quite stiff for a 20 minute walk to 1 waterfall with no other attractions. The same price could get you an overnight stay at a national forest in the US!
Regardless, the swim was amazing, and the first truly good swim I've had since I got here, which made it well worth almost any price.
And I thought I made a poor choice forgetting my hiking boots in Bangkok...
Friday, October 5, 2007
My first Faux Pas
Today I went to the beach and, as I usually would, put most of my belongings in my shoes. I hung out and swam for a few hours, and then headed back to my hotel on one of the "baht Buses" that run along the main strips of smaller towns... You hop on or off at any time along its trip and pay a meager 10 baht for the privilege.
My shoes and belongings were still in hand as I wanted to let my feet dry and de-sand before putting them back on. A little ways down the road I started to get some change out of my left shoe when a woman explained to me how that was disrespectful and, apparently, illegal. Coins in Thailand all carry an image of the king which "must be respected like Buddha, like a god. Put in shoes is disrespectful" she sternly told me.
I immediately fished the remaining coins out of my shoe and placed them in my pocket, thinking I should have known better. The feet are an unholy, dirty part of the body in Buddhist thought. The king is very respected. I knew I might get a few upturned noses from putting anything at all in my shoes, but hadn't realized I'd been so crass as to put the king there!
It made me feel a little better when after she got off the bus the guy sitting across from me (also a Thai) told me she was mean. "It's not like you keep money there all the time" he said. When I told him that it was okay and that it just never occured to me that it was a symbol of the king, he told me that he doesn't think of it that way either and insisted that she shouldn't have said anything...
Either way, I will refrain from making the same mistake again so as to not offend anyone.
Today will be my last day in Pattaya... Truly, I've been staying here much more for the luxury and kindness at my hotel than for the littered beaches and crowded nightlife. Tomorrow, I will be heading to Ko Chang, a much more pristine and deserted island in the far southeast. From there, I will make a quick jump into Cambodia to get my Visa renewed for another 30 days. I may try to make a trek to Angkor Wat, although it won't be convenient to my point of entry. I will probably have to make the run one more time, so perhaps I will see Angkor Wat then...
My shoes and belongings were still in hand as I wanted to let my feet dry and de-sand before putting them back on. A little ways down the road I started to get some change out of my left shoe when a woman explained to me how that was disrespectful and, apparently, illegal. Coins in Thailand all carry an image of the king which "must be respected like Buddha, like a god. Put in shoes is disrespectful" she sternly told me.
I immediately fished the remaining coins out of my shoe and placed them in my pocket, thinking I should have known better. The feet are an unholy, dirty part of the body in Buddhist thought. The king is very respected. I knew I might get a few upturned noses from putting anything at all in my shoes, but hadn't realized I'd been so crass as to put the king there!
It made me feel a little better when after she got off the bus the guy sitting across from me (also a Thai) told me she was mean. "It's not like you keep money there all the time" he said. When I told him that it was okay and that it just never occured to me that it was a symbol of the king, he told me that he doesn't think of it that way either and insisted that she shouldn't have said anything...
Either way, I will refrain from making the same mistake again so as to not offend anyone.
Today will be my last day in Pattaya... Truly, I've been staying here much more for the luxury and kindness at my hotel than for the littered beaches and crowded nightlife. Tomorrow, I will be heading to Ko Chang, a much more pristine and deserted island in the far southeast. From there, I will make a quick jump into Cambodia to get my Visa renewed for another 30 days. I may try to make a trek to Angkor Wat, although it won't be convenient to my point of entry. I will probably have to make the run one more time, so perhaps I will see Angkor Wat then...
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Pattaya, Where Swank Meets Sleaze
-or-
Pattaya, where the girls hoot, holler, clap, whistle, slap, and grope you.
Today I got totally fed up with Bangkok and decided I had to get out. On a whim, I decided to go to Pattaya, the nearest beach-vacation spot to Bangkok. I knew it would be sleazy and expensive... but... wow. When I first arrived, I made a bee-line for the nearest cheap hotel in my guidebook (which I found out is a bit dated). In the spot where my 450 baht per night hotel should have been was a very expensive looking set of high rises...
I walked and walked only to find a hotel with a similar name. Although it looked more expensive, I decided to give it a try. It was somewhere around 2,000 baht which was more than I was willing to pay for a place to put my head. As I left, a farang (white man... from the french word for "foreign") asked me what I was looking for.
I must have looked pretty destitute as I said "A place for under 500." As it turned out, his wife ran the place I originally looked for, and moved it about a year back. He introduced me to his wife who gave me a ride to the hotel in which I found an amazing deal. Although expensive for Thailand, it really is the best 15 dollars I could have spent.
The A/C is okay, the private bathroom is nice, the satin sheets are a plus, but what really appealed to me was the size of the room and the glorious amount of shelving. My last hotel room was about a foot larger than the bed inside and had absolutely nowhere to store anything. As one would expect, my tiny patch of floor, and eventually even my bed, became cluttered with all manner of junk.
This room has loads of space (enough for 3 king size beds at least), a very large armoire with enough space to hang all of my shirts and fold and put away all my things. I spent my first few moments gleefully putting away my clothes and other items which haven't had homes since I left America.
After about an hour, a shower, and some new clothes, I decided to head out in search of food. For some reason, I wanted Pizza. In my travels I unfortunately walked down "Soi 6." (Thailand has a wonderful street system. Major thoroughfares, such as Sukhumvit road have names "Thanon Sukhumvit" while side streets to that road simply have a number attached to them "Soi Sukhumvit 6")
Although there are bars throughout Pattaya filled with the friendliest women I have ever seen, all chanting "Welcome" or "I like you" or "come!," Soi 6 takes the cake. It's essentially like walking a gauntlet of prostitution. Door to door bars with no fewer than 5- 10 women outside of each establishment. At one point I actually had to jump and dodge out of the way of a prospective friend.
After that experience, I ended up topping off my evening with a luxurious dinner to match my hotel room, 6 dollar pizza and 3 dollar wine, at a Pizzeria on the beach. The pizza and decor was as good (or better) as any American place, which made up for the terrible house wine.
That about sums up my excursion thus far, minus some walking and talking to less tawdry locals.
I'll keep you posted!
Pattaya, where the girls hoot, holler, clap, whistle, slap, and grope you.
Today I got totally fed up with Bangkok and decided I had to get out. On a whim, I decided to go to Pattaya, the nearest beach-vacation spot to Bangkok. I knew it would be sleazy and expensive... but... wow. When I first arrived, I made a bee-line for the nearest cheap hotel in my guidebook (which I found out is a bit dated). In the spot where my 450 baht per night hotel should have been was a very expensive looking set of high rises...
I walked and walked only to find a hotel with a similar name. Although it looked more expensive, I decided to give it a try. It was somewhere around 2,000 baht which was more than I was willing to pay for a place to put my head. As I left, a farang (white man... from the french word for "foreign") asked me what I was looking for.
I must have looked pretty destitute as I said "A place for under 500." As it turned out, his wife ran the place I originally looked for, and moved it about a year back. He introduced me to his wife who gave me a ride to the hotel in which I found an amazing deal. Although expensive for Thailand, it really is the best 15 dollars I could have spent.
The A/C is okay, the private bathroom is nice, the satin sheets are a plus, but what really appealed to me was the size of the room and the glorious amount of shelving. My last hotel room was about a foot larger than the bed inside and had absolutely nowhere to store anything. As one would expect, my tiny patch of floor, and eventually even my bed, became cluttered with all manner of junk.
This room has loads of space (enough for 3 king size beds at least), a very large armoire with enough space to hang all of my shirts and fold and put away all my things. I spent my first few moments gleefully putting away my clothes and other items which haven't had homes since I left America.
After about an hour, a shower, and some new clothes, I decided to head out in search of food. For some reason, I wanted Pizza. In my travels I unfortunately walked down "Soi 6." (Thailand has a wonderful street system. Major thoroughfares, such as Sukhumvit road have names "Thanon Sukhumvit" while side streets to that road simply have a number attached to them "Soi Sukhumvit 6")
Although there are bars throughout Pattaya filled with the friendliest women I have ever seen, all chanting "Welcome" or "I like you" or "come!," Soi 6 takes the cake. It's essentially like walking a gauntlet of prostitution. Door to door bars with no fewer than 5- 10 women outside of each establishment. At one point I actually had to jump and dodge out of the way of a prospective friend.
After that experience, I ended up topping off my evening with a luxurious dinner to match my hotel room, 6 dollar pizza and 3 dollar wine, at a Pizzeria on the beach. The pizza and decor was as good (or better) as any American place, which made up for the terrible house wine.
That about sums up my excursion thus far, minus some walking and talking to less tawdry locals.
I'll keep you posted!
Monday, October 1, 2007
Pictures... Back on Line
Here are some of the pictures I have been unable to post due to a mixture of computer and camera dilemmas. These show my first week in Bangkok and Ayuttaya.
My room at the Green House.
Khao San Road, the center of Tourist life in Bangkok
A Pad Thai stall on Khao San
Cats in a pot...
The reason I won't eat fresh water fish in Thailand... These rivers were in the middle of Ayuttaya and looked very polluted...
One of the better preserved temples in Ayuttaya.
A Buddha, ceremoniously dressed.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)